Cappuccino Assembly Manual

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Kit Contents

Propeller x3

Reverse Propeller x3

Prop Saver (2 Screws, 1 Hub, 1 O-ring) x4

Motor Clip x4

Motor x4

Set A ESC (short wires) x2

Set B ESC (long wires) x2

Pylon x4

Right/Left Wing Half x1

Spar Cover Set (1, 2, 3, 4) x1

Foam Doodad x1

Winglet x2

Red LED Assembly x1

Green LED Assembly x1

LED Driver Board w/two white/blue combo LEDs x1

Carbon Spar x1

Electronics Frame x1

Electronics Frame Front Lid x1

Electronics Frame Back Lid x1

Hook and Loop Strap x1

M3 Screw x6

M2.5 Screw x4

XT60 Male Connector x1

Pigtail Kit (2 brass tubes, 2 wires, 4 shrink tube) x1

Servo w/long wires x1

Servo w/short wires x1

Servo Linkage Set (pushrod, connector, button, screw, control horn) x2

1/4-20 Camera Mounting Bolt x1

Required Tools

Glue (Welder's, Liquid Nails, 4693H, cyanoacrylate (CA) and a catalyst (kicker), hot glue, epoxy) We like 3M's 4693H. It is light, easy to work with, and dries clear. This glue cannot be used for all of the operations though; hot glue, epoxy, or CA is necessary for two steps.

Small Phillips Head Screwdriver

Large Phillips Head Screwdriver

Knife

Masking Tape

Soldering Iron

Solder

Pliers

Wire Cutters

Wire Stripper

Electrical Tape or Shrink Tubing

Additional Recommended Tools

One or Two Small Zip Ties

Propeller Balancer

Sandpaper

Assembly

Wait for the glue to dry before moving on from each step.

Orientation diagrams go here

Step 1: Wing

Optional: Lightly wet sand the spar. This improves the glue bond. Be sure to wear rubber gloves.

1. Measure and mark along the spar at 15-9/16" and 21-1/16", or 39.5cm and 53.5cm.

2. Remove the lids from the electronics frame if they are installed before continuing.

3. Install the hook and loop strap in the frame. It is possible to install this later but becomes more difficult.

  • pic

Optional: Lightly sand the outside edges of the electronics frame. This includes the left and right outside edges, the spar slot, and the underside of the battery compartment.

4. Glue the spar into the electronics frame. Put glue between the marks made earlier on the spar on three sides. The frame should be centered on the spar. Make sure that the spar is fully seated in the electronics frame.

  • pic of glue on spar
  • pic of spar in electronics frame

5. Test fit the left wing half onto the spar and electronics frame. Mark the frame around the edges of the foam. Note where the foam is touching the plastic. Remove the left wing half.

  • 2 pics, side and front/bottom marks on frame

6. Put glue on the electronics frame on all of the spots where the foam was touching it. Note: the foam does not touch the front edge of the electronics frame.

  • pic

7. Put glue on the three sides of the spar to the left of the electronics frame where the foam was touching it.

  • pic

8. Put the left wing half onto the spar and frame. Make sure that the spar is fully seated in the channel. The spar should be slightly above the surface of the foam. The end of the spar may not touch the end of the spar channel. The edge of the frame where the lids rest will sit below the top edge of the foam.

  • pic

9. Repeat for the right side of the wing. Note: the foam will pop into place around the camera bolt hole with a little bit of force.

  • pic of right wing going on frame

Step 2: LEDs

1. With the spar side of the wing up, install the red LEDs in the hole in the right wingtip and the green LEDs in the hole in the left wingtip. They do not require any glue. The red LEDs have a yellow wire and the green LEDs have a green wire. Route the wires in the channel that leads downwards and then below the spar, ending in the electronics frame.

  • pic of LED wire routing

2. Glue in outer spar covers 1 and 4. The covers are labeled on the outside surface. The wing is also labeled below the spar cover locations. Do not put glue on the inside edge where they would touch the pylons. For cover 1 this is the right edge and the left edge for cover 4.

  • pic of wingtip LED wire routing

3. Install the LED driver board in the lower compartment. It is mounted using two of the bigger screws in the lowest standoff mounts. The text should be right side up. Make sure that it is in the same orientation as in the photo with the red and black wires on the left and the black and white wire on the right.

  • LED driver board installed

4. The white and blue combination LEDs go in the bottom corners of the electronics frame. These have a blue wire. Both are mounted with the resistor facing towards you. A drop of hot glue or epoxy on the corner stands holds the LEDs in place.

  • pic of electronics frame LEDs installed

5. Route the red and black wires around the left LEDs, up the left side of the brain compartment, and into the battery compartment via the left-most hole. This supplies the LEDs with 12V power.

Step 3: Servos

1. Looking at the bottom of the wing, place the servos in the servo holes. Do not glue the servos in at this time. The servo with the longer wires goes in the left and the shorter on the right.

  • pic of servos in wing

2. Route the servo wires downwards over the spar, press them into the wire channel below the spar, and insert them into the box.

  • pic of servo wire routing

3. The servos come centered from the factory. If the servos have been rotated, they must be centered again. Center the servos with a radio system or a servo tester.

4. Enlarge the outer-most hole on the single-armed servo arm to fit the wire push rod. A 2.6mm drill bit does well.

  • pic of servo arm drilled

5. Install the servo arms as close as possible to the positions in the following picture. With the servos installed, the arms should be perpendicular to the surface of the wing. It may not be possible to get them exactly as shown.

  • pic of servo arms on centered servos

6. Glue the servos into the wing. Put glue on all sides of the servo that touch foam. Be careful not to put glue on the servo arm. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step.

  • pic?

7. Enlarge the bottom hole of the control horn to fit the pushrod keeper. Use a 3.1mm (1/8") bit, or simply rotate a knife in the hole until it fits. Do not install the keepers in at this time.

  • pic

8. Test fit the elevon control horns in the elevons. The holes should be towards the leading edge of the wing.

  • pic

9. Put keepers in the bottom hole with the big end pointing towards the center of the Quadshot but do not put the clear button on yet. Rotate the elevons with the control horns dry fitted. Adjust their location until they look like this:

  • pic of elevon deflected control horn installed

10. Glue in the control horns using hot glue, epoxy, or CA and kicker for this step. Plastic adhesive does not work well here. Make sure that the horns are fully seated in the slots. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step. Remove the keeper when dry.

11. Slide the keepers on the wire pushrods.

  • pic

12. Install the elevon pushrods onto the servos. Insert the part of the wire pushrod that looks like a Z into the outer-most hole on the servo arm until the second bend has been reached.

  • pic

13. Put the keeper in the bottom hole of the elevon horn and secure it with the clear button. Press the button firmly onto the end of the peg until it is seated against the horn.

14. Center the servos and secure the pushrod in the keeper with the elevons centered.

  • finished pic

Step 4: Pylons

The pylons and motors are identical and interchangeable.

1. Install the motors into the pylons. Start by holding a motor with the mounting slot pointing up in one hand and a pylon with the spar clip down in the other.

  • pic

2. Insert the motor into the pylon while looking through the hole in the motor mount in the pylon. The hole in the pylon may need to be cleared of excess foam at this point.

  • pic

3. Line up the slot in the motor with the hole and insert a motor clip. The motor will not mount correctly if it is pushed all of the way into the pylon. The straight side of the clip goes through the motor slot.

  • pic of motor installed with clip

CAUTION! If you are having trouble getting the clip in, remove the motor and try again. The motor may be damaged if you try and rotate it while it is inside the motor mount.

4. Take an ESC that has short wires, labelled Set A, and thread the two power wires through pylon socket A1 ahead of the spar and the three signal wires behind the spar. Put them into the small cutouts to the right of the pylon socket.

  • pic of wires passing through socket A1

5. Install a pylon into position A1. To install the pylons, place one hand under the pylon socket, line up the clip on the bottom of the pylon with the spar, and press the pylon straight down onto the spar until it clicks into place. To remove the pylons, first disconnect the motor wires that connect it to the ESC. Then tip the pylon to the side until you feel it disconnect, about 15 degrees, and pull out. Leave the pylon installed for now.

Place one hand under the pylon socket and press the pylon straight down onto the spar until it clicks into place.

6. Connect the motor wires to the ESC. It does not matter which wire is connected to which at this moment.

7. Optional: Glue the ESC to the wing. Make sure there is wire slack on both ends of the ESC.

  • pic of ESC placement

8. Flip the Quadshot over and press the two power wires into the front wire channel and route them into the battery compartment. Press the three signal wires into the rear wire channel and route them into the brain compartment.

  • pic of pylon A1 wire routing

9. Put a piece of tape on the connector or use a silver pen and label it A1.

  • labeled ESC signal wire

10. Pylon position A2 also uses a motor and ESC with short wires labelled Set A. As with the first pylon, thread the power wires through the pylon socket ahead of the spar and the three signal wires behind. Put the wires in the wire passages to the right of the pylon socket.

  • pic

11. Install a pylon in the socket. Connect the motor wires to the ESC. It does not matter which wire is connected to which at this moment.

12. Glue the ESC to the wing as close to the motor as possible.

  • pic

13. Press the three signal wires into the rear wire channel, route them into the brain compartment, and label them A2.

14. Press the two power wires into the front wire channel and route them on top of the spar instead of into the battery compartment. They then turn up into the battery compartment at the gap in the box that is in front of the spar.

  • pic of A2 wire routing

15. Install a pylon into position B1. Connect an ESC with long wires labelled Set B. Glue the ESC to the wing as close to the motor as possible.

  • pic

16. Press the three signal wires into the rear wire channel, route them into the brain compartment, and label them B1. Press the two power wires into the front wire channel and route them into the battery compartment.

  • pic of B1 wire routing

17. Glue the last ESC to the wing in the same position as the other ESCs. Install a pylon into position B2. Connect the ESC and motor.

  • pic

18. Press the three signal wires into the rear wire channel, route them into the brain compartment, and label them B2. Press the two power wires into the front wire channel and route them on top of the spar instead of into the battery compartment as with pylon A2. They then turn up into the battery compartment through the gap.

  • pic of B2 wire routing

Step 5: Solder

Power Wires

1. The silicone wire pig tail leads come soldered to an XT60 male battery connector. The wire length is 45mm and is made to match the wire length on the battery that is made for the Quadshot. The length of the battery wire with connector is 4-5/16", or 110mm.

2. It is recommended that you trim the wires on the pigtails or your battery of choice to fit correctly inside of the Quadshot. If your battery leads are longer than 110mm, it is possible to trim the pigtail, but this makes shrinking tubing over the brass difficult, if not impossible. Electrical tape could be used in this case. If your battery leads are shorter than 110mm and is 14AWG, it will fit if trimmed to mm. In this case the battery must be installed with the wires coming out of the battery in the top right corner of the battery compartment. 12AWG does not turn well enough to loop back over the battery. If 12AWG wire is forced to make the turn, the battery lid will not fit correctly and may fall out in flight. Also, the connector must not lie over the hook and loop battery strap. The lid will not close properly if the connector lies on the strap. Make sure that the solder joints connecting the wires to the battery are not stressed.

A battery with leads that start in the top right corner of the battery compartment.

2. Group the ESC and LED driver board power wires together in the left side of the battery compartment. There should be 4 larger red silicone wires, 4 larger black silicone wires, 1 smaller red wire, and 1 smaller black wire. Cut the four larger wires to the same length as the shortest wire. Unwind the two smaller wires back to the spar. Strip the ends of the wires and tin them.

  • pic

3a. Recommended: Insert the tinned ends of the wires into the brass tubes, all positive in one and negative the other. Heat a brass tube with the soldering iron from the outside and feed solder inside the tube onto the wires until the solder melts. This method is the strongest.

3b. An alternative method to solder the wires is to solder them in pairs to get two pairs of red, two pairs of black, and another wire of each. Then use heat shrink tubing or tape to hold all five of the like wires together and then solder them. This method is not as strong as the first as it can be difficult to get a uniform solder joint.

3c. Another method is to crimp all five like wires with an electrical connector or metal tab to hold them together and then solder them.

  • pic of brass tubing

4. Put an additional piece of shrink tubing over both pig tail leads on the XT60 connector but do not shrink them.

5. Solder the pigtail leads onto the ends of the ESC power wires and shrink the tubing over the connection.

6. Remove the tape that is holding the wires to the pylons.

  • pic of finished wiring

LEDs

1. Route the wingtip LED wires down the sides of the frame and around the corner LEDs in the frame.

  • pic of wingtip LED wire routing

2.. Solder the wingtip LED wires to the LED driver board. The red LED wires go in the vacant holes on the right and the green in the left. The order of the wires from left to right is: red x2, black, green, black, blue, black, blue, black, yellow, black, black on top, white on bottom.

Step 6: Brain

1. The brain mounts in the frame are designed to fit either a Lia, Lisa/M or Lisa/L. The larger mounts use M3 screws while the smaller use M2.5.

2. The mounts on the right side of the frame are designed to fit an XBee using M3 screws.

Step 7: Receiver(s)

2.4GHz JR or Spektrum users: 1. A special wire harness is required to use JR or Spektrum 2.4GHz satellite receivers with Lia and Lisa/M and is included in the Cappuccino kits. Lia and Lisa/M can fly with one satellite receiver but two are recommended. Only continue with Step 7: Receivers if Lia or Lisa/M are to be used.

  • pic of JR y harness

2. Start from inside the brain compartment and route the shorter wires through the right-most hole above the spar and continue out the front hole on the side of the frame where the power wires enter. Connect a JR or Spektrum satellite receiver and mount it in the hole in the bottom of the wing.

3. Start from inside the brain compartment and route the longer wires through the lower left hole on the side of the frame where the servo wires enter the lower compartment. Press them into the wire channel below the spar and turn them up towards the hole in the bottom of the wing to the left of the servo. Connect your other satellite receiver and mount it here. A foam doodad is included in the kit to fill in this hole. Cut the doodad to fit your receiver and secure it in place.

  • pic of sat Rx wire routing

4. Route the antennas as per the receiver instructions.

5a. To bind the receivers with Lisa/M, plug in the supplied bind plug to the more-left center connector on Lisa/M. The connector only fits one way.

  • pic of bind plug installed

5b. To bind the receivers to Lia,

6. Plug in a battery to the Quadshot. It is now in bind mode. Follow the instructions supplied with your transmitter to bind the receivers.

Step 8: Spar Covers

1. Glue in the inner spar covers. They are unique and not interchangeable. There are raised numbers in the foam under the spar cover positions as well as on the spar covers themselves. Match spar cover 2 to position 2. Put glue on the underside and outside edges of the covers. Do not put glue on the edges that touch the pylons. The corners on spar cover 3 are removed for wire passage for the ESC. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step.

  • pic of bottom of QS with spar covers in

Step 9: Winglets

Glue the winglets onto the ends of the wings. Do not glue the elevons onto the winglets. The winglets are identical and are interchangeable. Make sure that the winglets are fully seated onto the ends of the wing. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step.

Step 10: Lids

It is useful to have one or two zip ties bundling the wires together where they enter the electronics frame to make closing the lid easy. Another could be used to tighten the bundle of power wires together.

To install the top lid insert the tabs into the slots above the spar and then press the top edge into the top of the box.

To install the bottom lid line up the hinges on the lid with the hinges on the frame while holding the lid open 180 degrees. Press the hinges together, one at a time, until they pop into place. It should not require excessive force.

Contact Information

weshouldsetupacustomerserviceaccount@thequadshot.com

The Quadshot Forum

phone #?

address?

Warranty and Repair Policy

Transition Robotics has no control over final assembly, setup, use or misuse, modification, so no liability shall be accepted nor assumed for any resulting injury or damage. By the act of assembly, setup or use, the user accepts all resulting liability.

CE

Instructions for disposal of WEEE by users in the European Union

www.thequadshot.com

Created 9/11

Transition Robotics, Inc.