Assembly Manual

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Kit Contents

Latte

  • 1x Right Wing Half
  • 1x Left Wing Half
  • 4x Pylon
  • 1x Spar Cover Set (1, 2, 3, 4)
  • 2x Winglet
  • 1x Radio Receiver Bay Cover
  • 1x Carbon Spar
  • 1x Electronics Frame
  • 1x Electronics Frame Front Lid
  • 1x Electronics Frame Back Lid
  • 2x Servo Linkage Set (pushrod, control horn)
  • 4x Motor Clip
  • 1x 1/4" - 20 Camera Mounting Bolt
  • 1x Hook and Loop Strap
  • 6x M3 Screw
  • 4x M2 Screw
Latte contents from left to right: pylons, spar covers 2 and 3, spar covers 1 and 4, winglets, radio receiver bay cover, front lid, rear lid, electronics frame; left wing half (underside shown), right wing half; carbon spar; M2 screws, M3 screws, motor clips, camera mounting bolt, hook-loop strap, servo pushrods, control horns.

Cappuccino

All of the above, plus:

  • 2x Set A ESC (short wires)
  • 2x Set B ESC (long wires)
  • 4x Motor
  • 4x Prop Saver set (2x M3 screws, 1x Hub, 1x rubber O-ring)
  • 2x Propeller
  • 2x Reverse Propeller
  • 1x Red LED board
  • 1x Green LED board
  • 2x White/Blue LED board
  • 4x LED signal/ground wires
  • 1x LED Driver Board w/wires
  • 1x Battery pigtail
  • 1x Pigtail Kit (2 brass tubes, 2 shrink tube)
  • 1x Servo w/long wires
  • 1x Servo w/short wires
  • 2x Servo quick link
Cappuccino contents from left to right: propellers, pylons, spar covers 2 and 3, spar covers 1 and 4, winglets, radio receiver bay cover, front lid, rear lid, electronics frame, Set B ESCs; reverse propellers, left wing half (underside shown), right wing half, set A ESCs; carbon spar, LED power wires (red/black), voltage sense wire (red), blue/white LED boards and wires (blue/black), red LED board and wires (yellow/black), green LED board and wires (green/black), LED driver board, LED signal wire (white/black); servo accessories, servos, M2 screws, M3 screws, motor clips, camera mounting bolt, hook-loop strap, servo pushrods, control horns, prop savers; motors, pigtail heat shrink tube, pigtail brass tubes, battery pigtail.

Espresso

All of the above, plus:

  • 1x Lisa/M with mounted Aspirin IMU
  • 1x XBee w/serial board and connector
  • 1x XBee w/USB serial board
  • 1x Propeller
  • 1x Reverse Propeller
  • 1x Lisa/M to Spektrum® receiver Y-cable
Lisa/M v2.0.

Required Tools

  • Glue (3M 4693H contact cement, cyanoacrylate (CA) and a catalyst (kicker), epoxy, Welder's, or Liquid Nails)
    • We like the 3M 4693H. It is light, easy to work with, and dries clear. This glue cannot be used for all of the operations though; epoxy, or CA is necessary for two steps.
    • hot glue is useful for attaching the motor controllers to the wing
  • Small Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Large Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Knife
  • Masking Tape
  • Soldering Iron and Solder
  • Needlenose Pliers
  • Wire Cutters
  • Wire Stripper

Additional Recommended Tools

  • Drill
    • 2.6mm (7/64") drill bit
    • 3.1mm (1/8") drill bit
  • One or Two Small Zip Ties
  • Large Flathead Screwdriver
  • Propeller Balancer
  • Sandpaper

Assembly

Note the naming conventions for the four pylons:

Quadshot top view showing pylon naming conventions.

Step 1: Wing

Optional: Lightly wet sand the spar. This improves the glue bond. Be sure to wear rubber gloves.

1. Measure and mark the spar at 400mm and 540mm from one end (15-3/4" and 21-1/4").

QS1 kit 001.jpg

2. Remove the lids from the electronics frame if they are installed before continuing.

3. Install the hook and loop strap in the frame. It is possible to install this later but becomes more difficult.

QS1 kit 002.jpg

Optional: Lightly sand the outside edges of the electronics frame. This includes the left and right outside edges, the spar slot, and the underside of the battery compartment.

4. Glue the spar into the electronics frame. Put glue on three sides of the spar between the marks made in Step 1. The frame should be centered left-to-right on the spar. Make sure that the spar is fully seated in the electronics frame.

QS1 kit 003.jpg
QS1 kit 004.jpg

5. Test fit the left wing half onto the spar and electronics frame. Mark the outside of the frame around the edges of the foam. Note where the foam touches the plastic. Remove the left wing half.

QS1 kit 006.jpg
QS1 kit 005.jpg
QS1 kit 007.jpg

6. Apply glue:

  • Around the outside the electronics frame where the foam touches
  • On the three sides of the spar to the left of the electronics frame where the foam touches.

7. Put the left wing half onto the spar and frame. Make sure that the spar is fully seated in the wing spar channel. The spar should be slightly above the surface of the foam. The end of the spar will not touch the end of the spar channel. The edge of the frame where the lids rest will sit below the top edge of the foam.

Note the top edge of the electronics frame is recessed below the top surface of the wing.
QS1 kit 009.jpg

8. Repeat for the right side of the wing.

QS1 kit 013.jpg
QS1 kit 014.jpg

Note: press gently to pop the foam into place around the camera mount hole.

QS1 kit 011.jpg

Step 2: Wingtip LEDs

1. With the spar side of the wing up, install the red LED board into the right wingtip and the green LED board into the left wingtip. The boards do not require any glue, and should be installed as shown, with the resistors visible. The red LED board has a yellow power wire and black ground wire. The green LED board has a green power wire and black ground wire. Route the wires in the channel that leads downwards and then aft of the spar, ending in the electronics frame.

QS1 kit 015.jpg
QS1 kit 016.jpg

2. Separate the outer spar covers 1 and 4 from the foam holding them together.

QS1 kit 017.jpg

3. Glue in outer spar covers 1 and 4. The covers are labeled on the outside surface. The wing is also labeled aft of the spar cover locations. Do not put glue on the inboard curved edge where they would touch the pylons. For cover 1 this is the right edge and the left edge for cover 4.

QS1 kit 018.jpg
QS1 kit 019.jpg

Step 3: Servos

1. Enlarge the outermost hole on the single-armed servo arms to fit the wire push rods. If using a drill, a 2.6mm or 7/64" bit works well.

2. The servos come centered from the factory. If the servos have been rotated, they must be centered again. Center the servos with a radio system or a servo tester. The servos can also be centered later with Lisa/M. If Lisa/M is needed to center the servos, simply do not glue the servos into the wing until later - instead, tape them in with masking tape or let them rest as they are.

3. Install the servo arms as close as possible to the positions in the following picture. With the servos installed, the arms should be perpendicular to the surface of the wing. It may not be possible to get them exactly as shown. Do not worry if the servo arms rotate while installing the screws. We will center them later.

Note the servo with the longer wire is shown on the left.

4. With the spar side of the wing up, place the servos in the servo holes. If the servos were centered when the arms were installed, glue the servos into the wing. Put glue on all sides of the servo that touch foam. Be careful not to put glue on the servo arm. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step. The servo with the longer wires goes on the left, between spar covers 1 and 2. The servo with the shorter wires goes on the right, between spar covers 3 and 4.

5. Route the servo wires downwards over the spar, press them into the wire channel below the spar, and insert them into the box.

QS1 kit 021.jpg
QS1 kit 022.jpg

Step 4: Elevon Control Horns

1. Enlarge the bottom hole of the control horn to fit the quick link shaft. Use a 2.2mm (44 gauge, 0.086 in) bit, or simply rotate a knife in the hole until the quick link fits. Install the quick links into the control horns as shown.

QS1 kit 023.jpg

2. Test fit the control horns in the elevons. The holes should be towards the leading edge of the wing, and the quick links should be inboard of the horns. Rotate the elevons with the control horns dry fitted. Sighting down the length of the wing, adjust their location until the center of the quick link shaft is aligned with the bottom surface of the wing, and the front edge of the control horn just contacts the wing foam. If desired, mark where the control horns fit into the elevon to aid alignment during gluing.

QS1 kit 024.jpg
QS1 kit 025.jpg

3. Glue in the control horns using hot glue, epoxy, or CA and kicker for this step. 3M contact cement does not work well here. Make sure that the horns are aligned as shown in the previous step. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step.

Step 5: Pylons and Motors

The pylons and motors are identical and interchangeable.

1. On each pylon, clear the motor clip holes and remove any foam flashing from the motor clip cutout areas and inside the motor mount tube.

QS1 kit 026.jpg
QS1 kit 027.jpg

2. Install the motors into the pylons. Start by holding a motor with the mounting slot pointing up in one hand and a pylon with the spar clip down in the other. Rotate the slot in the motor and the holes in the pylon until they match alignment as seen in the picture.

QS1 kit 028.jpg

3. Insert the motor into the pylon until the the slot in the motor is aligned with the pylon hole. Make sure the wires exiting the motor are not crushed between the motor and pylon. Gently bend the wires out of the way if necessary. The motor can go too far into the tube. The motor clip will not install correctly if the motor is in the tube all of the way.

QS1 kit 029.jpg

4. Insert a motor clip so that the straight side goes into motor mount tube hole, through the slot in the motor, and out the other hole. The bent part of the clip will grip the underside of the motor mount tube. Remember, the motor will not mount correctly if it is pushed all of the way into the pylon.

Beginning to insert the clip, front view.
Beginning to insert the clip, rear view.
Fully inserted clip, front view.
Fully inserted clip, rear view.
Fully inserted clip, top view.
Important.png If you are having trouble inserting the clip, remove the motor and try again. The motor may be damaged if you try and rotate it while it is inside the motor mount.

5. Repeat with the remaining pylons, motors, and motor clips.

Step 6: ESCs

Set A electronic speed controllers (ESCs) have shorter wires. Set B ESCs have longer wires. The ESCs are otherwise identical. It may help to use a large flathead screwdriver to press the ESC power and signal wires into the wire channels.

A1 ESC

1. Take one Set A ESC and thread the red and black power wires through the wing in pylon socket A1 (top port side), ahead of the spar. Thread the three signal wires behind the spar. Fit the wires into the small cutouts to the left of the pylon socket.

QS1 kit 035.jpg

2. Install a pylon into position A1. To install a pylon, place one hand under the pylon socket, line up the clip on the bottom of the pylon with the spar, and press the pylon straight down onto the spar until it clicks into place around the spar. To remove a pylon, first disconnect the motor wires that connect it to the ESC. Then tip the pylon about 15 degrees to the side until you feel it disconnect from the spar, and then pull it out of the socket. Leave the pylon installed for now.

Place one hand under the pylon socket and press the pylon straight down onto the spar until it clicks into place.

3. Check that the three motor wires can connect to the ESC without any wires being stretched tight. Adjust the position of the ESC if necessary.

4. Optional: Glue the ESC to the wing in the position shown.

QS1 kit 039.jpg

5. Flip the Quadshot over and press the two power wires into the front wire channel and route them into the battery compartment. Press the three signal wires into the rear wire channel and route them into the brain compartment.

QS1 kit 040.jpg

6. Put a piece of tape on the connector or use a silver pen and label it A1.

  • pic of labeled ESC signal wire

A2 ESC

1.Take the remaining Set A ESC and thread the power wires through pylon socket A2 (top starboard side) ahead of the spar. Thread the three signal wires behind the spar. Fit the wires into the small cutouts to the left of the pylon socket.

QS1 kit 037.jpg

2. Install a pylon into position A2. Check that the three motor wires can connect to the ESC without any wires being stretched tight. Adjust the position of the ESC if necessary.

3. Flip the Quadshot over and press the two power wires into the front wire channel. Route the power wires along the top of the spar, and into the battery compartment through the small channel in the electronics frame.

QS1 kit 043.jpg
Place the A2 ESC power wires along the spar and through the small channel so they pass into the battery box.

4. Press the three signal wires into the rear wire channel, route them into the brain compartment, and label them A2.

  • pic of labeled ESC signal wire

5. Optional: Flip the Quadshot back over and glue the ESC to the wing in the position shown above. Make sure no wires are stretched tight.

B1 ESC

1. Install a pylon into position B1 (lower port side).

  • pic of installed B1 pylon

2. Take one Set B ESC and position it as shown. Press the red and black power wires into the channels ahead of the spar. Press the three signal wires into the channel behind the spar. Note that the wires must run along the entire length of the wire channel and exit next to the pylon, with some additional length outside of the wing as seen in the picture below.

QS1 kit 057.jpg

3. Check that the three motor wires can connect to the ESC without any wires being stretched tight. Adjust the position of the ESC if necessary.

4. Optional: Glue the ESC to the wing in the position shown above. Make sure no wires are stretched tight.

5. Route the three signal wires into the brain compartment, and label them B1. Route the two power wires into the battery compartment.

B2 ESC

1. Take the remaining Set B ESC and position it as shown next to the pylon socket B2 (lower starboard side). Keeping the red and black power wires ahead of the spar and the three signal wires behind the spar, fit the wires into the small cutouts on the end of spar cover 1 and along the bottom of the pylon socket.

QS1 kit 049.jpg

2. Install a pylon into position B2. Check that the three motor wires can connect to the ESC without any wires being stretched tight. Adjust the position of the ESC if necessary.

QS1 kit 050.jpg

3. Press the power wires into the channels ahead of the spar. Press the three signal wires into the channel behind the spar.

4. Route the three signal wires into the brain compartment, and label them B2. Route the two power wires along the top of the spar, fitting them neatly next to the A2 ESC power wires. Make sure that they lie flat against the spar as shown. The spar covers do not fit otherwise. Route the power wires into the battery compartment through the small channel in the electronics frame.

QS1 kit 055.jpg
QS1 kit 053.jpg
QS1 kit 054.jpg

5. Optional: glue the ESC to the wing as shown.

QS1 kit 052.jpg

Step 7: Solder

LEDs

1. Locate the voltage sense wire (red), LED driver board PCB, LED signal wires (white/black), LED power/ground wires (red/black), and two blue/white LED boards with blue/black wires. The picoblade connectors for use with Lisa/M are shown. Depending on your autopilot (Lia, Lisa/M, Lisa/L, etc), you may need different connectors, or no connectors.

From left to right: voltage sense wire (red), LED driver board PCB, LED signal wires (white/black), LED power and ground wires (red/black), and two blue/white LED boards with blue/black wires.

2. Position the LED driver board so the "LED driver board" text is facing right-side up, and the small driver chip is on the right. Solder the wires as shown:

  • Red voltage sense wire and red LED power wire into the same leftmost '+' hole
  • Black LED ground wire into the leftmost '-' hole
  • First set of blue and white LED board wires into the second pair of holes:
    • Blue (power) wire into '+'
    • Black (ground) wire into '-'
  • Leave the third and fourth pairs of holes empty for the red LED board wires and green LED board wires
  • Second set of blue and white LED board wires into the fifth pair of holes:
    • Blue (power) wire into '+'
    • Black (ground) wire into '-'
  • White and black LED signal wires into the rightmost set of holes (vertical)
    • Black ground wire into the '-' (upper) hole
    • White signal wire into the signal (lower) hole
Assembled LED driver board. The five + holes on the left are connected internally and pass battery voltage to the LEDs and the autopilot via the voltage sense wire. The bottom right signal input drives the LEDs with a PWM output from the autopilot through the attached N-channel transistor.

3. Install the LED driver board in the lower compartment. It is mounted using two of the M3 (larger) Phillips head screws in the lowest standoff mounts. The text should be right side up. Make sure that it is in the same orientation as in the photo with the red and black wires on the left and the black and white wire on the right.

QS1 kit 063.jpg

4. Mount the white and blue LED boards by inserting the LEDs into the holes at the bottom corners of the electronics frame. Mount the boards so the resistor side (white LED) faces down. A drop of hot glue or epoxy on the corner stands holds the LED boards in place.

5. Route the red and black LED power/ground wires around the left LEDs, up the left side of the brain compartment, and into the battery compartment via the left-most hole.

6. Route the wingtip LED wires (yellow/black and green/black) down the sides of the frame and around the corner LEDs in the frame.

7. Solder the wingtip LED wires into the two sets remaining empty holes:

  • Left set of holes:
    • Yellow (power) wire into the '+'
    • Black (ground wire into the '-'
  • Right set of holes:
    • Green (power) wire into the '+'
    • Black (ground wire into the '-'
QS1 kit 066.jpg

Power Wires

Recommendations:

  • The pigtail wire is 45mm (1-3/4") in length, and is made to match a battery with approximately 85mm (3-3/8") power leads, as measured from the battery to the inside of the XT60 connector. It is recommended that you adjust either the length of the pigtail leads or the wires on your battery to fit correctly inside of the Quadshot. If the leads on the Quadshot are shortened it will not be possible to shrink tubing over the brass tubing. Tape is required in this case.
  • To fit properly, the connector must not lie over the hook and loop battery strap, as this prevents the lid from closing properly. It is possible to bundle up extra battery wire with the balance tap and put it to the right of the battery if there is room.
  • It is difficult to manipulate 12AWG wire in the battery compartment - use 14AWG if possible.
  • Ensure that the solder joints connecting the wires to the battery are not stressed.

1. Group the silicone ESC power wires together by color in the left side of the battery compartment. Cut each set of four wires to the same length as the shortest wire.

QS1 kit 060.jpg

2. Unwind the portion of the LED power and ground wires that extend into the battery compartment.

3. Strip and tin the ends of 10 wires:

  • Four red ESC power wires
  • Four black ESC ground wires
  • Red LED power wire
  • Black LED ground wire
QS1 kit 064.jpg

4a. Recommended: Brass tubes

  • Cut a piece of cardboard to line the bottom of the battery compartment.
  • Insert the tinned ends of the wires into the brass tubes, all positive in one and negative the other. The success of this method relies greatly on equal length wires. The wires must rest within the tube without *too much manipulation. If one wire is long and the solder is melted, it will raise the brass tube over the other wires, separating the joint before the solder cools.
  • Heat a brass tube with a soldering iron from the outside, near the bottom of the tube. Make sure to lightly touch the tube. The assembly may fall apart if too much force is used.
  • Feed solder inside the tube onto the wires until the solder melts, joining the wires and tube. Do not push the wires with the solder while the joint is cold or they wires may fall out of the tube; just contact the wires with the solder. This method is the strongest.
QS1 kit 067.jpg
QS1 kit 070.jpg

4b. An alternative method to solder the wires is to solder them in pairs to get two pairs of red, two pairs of black, and another wire of each. Then use heat shrink tubing or tape to hold all five of the like wires together and then solder them. This method is not as strong as the first as it can be difficult to get a uniform solder joint.

4c. Another method is to crimp each set of five like wires with an electrical connector or metal tab to hold them together and then solder them.

5. Put a piece of shrink tubing over each pig tail lead on the XT60 connector but do not shrink them. It is recommended to first cut the shrink tubing to just longer than the brass tubing length. The tubing may shrink due to the short length of the pigtail leads.

6. Insert the pigtail leads into the appropriate brass tube. Holding the shrink tubing away from the brass tubes, solder the pigtail wires into place.

QS1 kit 071.jpg

7. Shrink the heat shrink tubing over the brass, making sure the metal is completely covered.

Important.png Use caution to prevent your heat source from melting the foam and plastic. We like to poke the power wires through a sheet of cardboard covering the battery area.

Step 8: Electronics

Lisa/M

The schematic diagram for connecting Lisa/M to a Quadshot can be found here.

1. Install Lisa/M using the four M2 (smaller) screws. The three-pin servo outputs point to the port (left) wing. The white connectors face out.

2. Connect the ESC and servo three-wire connectors to the three-pin servo outputs:

  • A1 ESC to S1 (lowest connector)
  • A2 ESC to S2
  • B1 ESC to S3
  • B2 ESC to S4
  • Port (left) servo to S5
  • Starboard (right) servo to S6
  • pic of installed Lisa/M

XBee

1. Install the serial XBee carrier board using the remaining four M3 (larger) screws in the right side of the electronics frame. The notched end of the XBee board will be closest to the spar, and the serial output will leave closest to the wing trailing edge.

2. Connect the XBee carrier board connector wire to the four-pin UART2 connector on the bottom center of Lisa/M.

3. Install the XBee board onto the carrier by pressing its pins into the connectors, matching the XBee's shape with the white outline on the carrier. Use caution to avoid bending or misaligning the pins. If using an XBee board with a whip antenna, bend the antenna to point towards the battery compartment.

  • pic of installed XBee

Step 9: Receiver(s)

JR® and Spektrum® Receivers

Lia, Lisa/M, and Lisa/L are compatible with JR® and Spektrum® 2.4GHz satellite receivers. It is possible to fly with one satellite receiver, but two are recommended.

Lisa/M: Use a Y harness with legs 100mm and 270mm long. The center connector is a 6 pin picoblade, connected to Lisa/M in UART1/5. Picoblade 3 pin connectors are not compatible with JR or Spektrum satellite receivers.

  • pic of JR Y harness

Lia: Similar to Lisa/M, but without the center connector. Use one 100mm three-wire pigtail and one 270mm three-wire pigtail and solder into the six RX RC through holes.

Lisa/L: Use two three-wire pigtails. See here for the connection diagram.

1. Start from inside the brain compartment and route the shorter pigtail through the right-most hole above the spar and continue out the front hole on the side of the frame where the power wires enter. Connect a JR or Spektrum satellite receiver and mount it in the hole in the bottom of the wing.

2. Start from inside the brain compartment and route the longer pigtail through the lower left hole on the side of the frame where the servo wires enter the lower compartment. Press them into the wire channel below the spar and turn them up towards the hole in the bottom of the wing to the left of the servo. Connect your other satellite receiver and mount it here. If desired, cut the radio receiver bay cover to fit your receiver and secure it in place.

QS1 kit 081.jpg
QS1 kit 085.jpg
QS1 kit 185.jpg

3. Route the receiver antennas as per the manufacturer's instructions.

FlySky® and Quadshot Receivers

Important yellow.png If a FlySky® CT6B radio system is used, Lia and Lisa/M are only directly compatible with FlySky® CT6B radio systems that have a PPM output on the BAT channel signal pin.

Use a 250mm black/red/white three-wire pigtail with a male servo connector on one end and bare wires (for Lia) or a 6-pin Picoblade connector (for Lisa/M) on the other.

1. Start from inside the brain compartment and route the pigtail through the lower left hole on the side of the frame where the servo wires enter the lower compartment. Press them into the wire channel below the spar and turn them up towards the hole in the bottom of the wing to the left of the servo.

2. Press-fit the receiver into the hole in the wing so that the antenna fits into the notch.

3. Clip the antenna between the foam fingers on the wing. If desired, secure with tape or a dab of glue.

4. Insert the receiver pigtail into the channel labelled BAT (if using a FlySky receiver) or PPM/BIND (if using a QuadShot receiver), making sure that the pigtail polarity is correct.

Lisa/M:

6-pin Picoblade connector pinout:

  • Black (ground) to pin 1
  • Red (3.3V) to pin 2
  • White (PWM signal) to pin 3
  • No connections to pins 4-6

Lia:

Strip and tin the ends of the three pigtail wires. Solder the wires into the three rightmost through holes in the RX RC section:

  • Black (ground) to GND
  • Red (3.3V) to 3V3
  • White (PWM signal) to RX3

Other Receivers

A PPM encoder board should allow Lisa/M and Lia to receive commands from most RC receivers. A minimum of 5 channels is required (throttle, pitch, roll, yaw, flight mode), and 6 or more channels is recommended.

Ppm receiver on Lisa2 for toytronics branch. Connect the ppm receiver on UART1.

Include in your airframe

 < subsystem name= "radio_control" type="ppm">

Step 10: Spar Covers and Servo Centering

Glue in the inner spar covers.

Recommended: First indent or remove some of the foam shown here to make a wire passage for the satellite receiver wire.

QS1 kit 187.jpg

The spar covers are unique and not interchangeable. There are recessed numbers in the foam under the spar cover positions as well as on the spar covers themselves. Put glue on the underside and outside edges of the covers. Do not put glue on the edges that touch the pylons. The corners on spar cover 3 are removed for wire passage for the ESC. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step.

QS1 kit 074.jpg

To center the servos with a Lia or Lisa/M:

1. Stand the QS on a level surface and unplug the motors from the ESCs.

2. Turn on the transmitter, install a battery in the Quadshot and plug it in.

3. Meet the safe mode requirements to activate the Quadshot. Raise the throttle above 15%. Do not move the left stick left or right.

4. At this point, the servos activate and center themselves.

5. Install the elevon pushrods onto the servos. Insert the part of the wire pushrod that looks like a Z into the outer-most hole on the servo arm until the second bend has been reached.

QS1 kit 091.jpg

6. Turn off the Quadshot by unplugging the battery. Tighten the screws on the elevon horns while holding the elevons in the center position. The center position is where the inside ends of the elevons are in alignment with the electronics frame.

QS1 kit 093.jpg

Step 11: Winglets

The winglets are identical and are interchangeable.

1. Test-fit the winglets onto the ends of the wings, making sure they fit over the keys on the end of the wings and sit straight. Remove any flashing with a knife or sandpaper if required.

2. Glue the winglets on to the wings. Do not glue the winglets to the elevons. Make sure that the winglets are fully seated onto the ends of the wing. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step.

Step 12: Lids

It is useful to have one or two zip ties bundling the wires together where they enter the electronics frame to make closing the lid easier. Another could be used to tighten the bundle of power wires together.

To install the battery lid, insert the tabs into the slots above the spar and then press the top edge into the top of the box.

QS1 kit 095.jpg

To install the brain lid, line up the hinges on the lid with the hinges on the frame while holding the lid open 180 degrees. Press the hinges together, one at a time, until they pop into place. It should not require excessive force.

QS1 kit 094.jpg


Step 13: Prop Savers

Thread two Phillips-head M3 machine screws (flat tip, not pointed tip) into each blue anodized aluminum prop saver. Slip one prop saver over each motor shaft with the smaller (5mm diameter) end facing out away from the motor.

  • pic of prop saver on motor

With the 5mm end flush with the end of the motor shaft, use a screwdriver to FIRMLY tighten both screws down so they lock against the motor shaft.

Do not install the propellers yet.

Step 14: Receiver binding

1a. To bind the receivers with Lisa/M, plug in the supplied bind plug to the more-left center connector on Lisa/M. The connector only fits one way.

  • pic of bind plug installed

1b. To bind the receivers to Lia,

2. Plug in a battery to the Quadshot. It is now in bind mode. Follow the instructions supplied with your transmitter to bind the receivers.

Before you Fly

Read the Mocha User Manual before you fly!

Contact Information

Warranty and Repair Policy

CE

Instructions for disposal of WEEE by users in the European Union

JR

Spektrum

www.thequadshot.com

Created 9/11

Transition Robotics, Inc.