- 1 Kit Contents
- 2 Required Tools
- 3 Assembly
- 4 Contact Information
- 5 Warranty and Repair Policy
- 1x Right Wing Half
- 1x Left Wing Half
- 4x Pylon
- 1x Spar Cover Set (1, 2, 3, 4)
- 2x Winglet
- 1x Radio Receiver Bay Cover
- 1x Carbon Spar
- 1x Electronics Frame
- 1x Electronics Frame Front Lid
- 1x Electronics Frame Back Lid
All of the above, plus:
- Set A ESC (short wires) x2
- Ser B ESC (long wires) x2
- Motor x4
- Motor Clip x4
- Prop Saver (2 Screws, 1 Hub, 1 O-ring) x4
- M3 Screw x6
- M2.5 Screw x4
- 1/4 - 20 Camera Mounting Bolt x1
- Propeller x3
Reverse Propeller x3 Red LED Assembly x1 Green LED Assembly x1 LED Driver Board w/two white/blue combo LEDs x1 XT60 Male Connector x1 Pigtail Kit (2 brass tubes, 2 wires, 2 shrink tube) x1 Servo w/long wires x1 Servo w/short wires x1 Servo Linkage Set (pushrod, connector, control horn) x2 Hook and Loop Strap x1
All of the above, plus: Lisa/M with mounted Aspirin IMU x1 XBee w/serial board and connector x1 XBee w/USB serial board x1
Glue (Welder's, Liquid Nails, 4693H, cyanoacrylate (CA) and a catalyst (kicker), hot glue, epoxy) We like 3M's 4693H. It is light, easy to work with, and dries clear. This glue cannot be used for all of the operations though; hot glue, epoxy, or CA is necessary for two steps.
Small Phillips Head Screwdriver
Large Phillips Head Screwdriver
Electrical Tape or Shrink Tubing
Additional Recommended Tools
One or Two Small Zip Ties
pic of QS top with front/back/top A1 A2 B1 B2 labeled
pic of QS bottom with front/back/bottom A1 A2 B1 B2 labeled
Step 1: Wing
Optional: Lightly wet sand the spar. This improves the glue bond. Be sure to wear rubber gloves.
1. Measure and mark along the spar at 15-9/16" and 21-1/16", or 39.5cm and 53.5cm.
2. Remove the lids from the electronics frame if they are installed before continuing.
3. Install the hook and loop strap in the frame. It is possible to install this later but becomes more difficult.
Optional: Lightly sand the outside edges of the electronics frame. This includes the left and right outside edges, the spar slot, and the underside of the battery compartment.
4. Glue the spar into the electronics frame. Put glue between the marks made earlier on the spar on three sides. The frame should be centered on the spar. Make sure that the spar is fully seated in the electronics frame.
- pic of glue on spar
- pic of spar in electronics frame
5. Test fit the left wing half onto the spar and electronics frame. Mark the frame around the edges of the foam. Note where the foam is touching the plastic. Remove the left wing half.
- 2 pics, side and front/bottom marks on frame
6. Put glue on the electronics frame on all of the spots where the foam was touching it. Note: the foam does not touch the front edge of the electronics frame.
7. Put glue on the three sides of the spar to the left of the electronics frame where the foam was touching it.
8. Put the left wing half onto the spar and frame. Make sure that the spar is fully seated in the channel. The spar should be slightly above the surface of the foam. The end of the spar may not touch the end of the spar channel. The edge of the frame where the lids rest will sit below the top edge of the foam.
9. Repeat for the right side of the wing. Note: the foam will pop into place around the camera bolt hole with a little bit of force.
- pic of right wing going on frame
Step 2: LEDs
1. With the spar side of the wing up, install the red LEDs in the hole in the right wingtip and the green LEDs in the hole in the left wingtip. They do not require any glue. The red LEDs have a yellow wire and the green LEDs have a green wire. Route the wires in the channel that leads downwards and then below the spar, ending in the electronics frame.
- pic of LED wire routing
2. Glue in outer spar covers 1 and 4. The covers are labeled on the outside surface. The wing is also labeled below the spar cover locations. Do not put glue on the inside edge where they would touch the pylons. For cover 1 this is the right edge and the left edge for cover 4.
- pic of wingtip LED wire routing
3. Install the LED driver board in the lower compartment. It is mounted using two of the bigger screws in the lowest standoff mounts. The text should be right side up. Make sure that it is in the same orientation as in the photo with the red and black wires on the left and the black and white wire on the right.
- LED driver board installed
4. The white and blue combination LEDs go in the bottom corners of the electronics frame. These have a blue wire. Both are mounted with the resistor facing towards you. A drop of hot glue or epoxy on the corner stands holds the LEDs in place.
- pic of electronics frame LEDs installed
5. Route the red and black wires around the left LEDs, up the left side of the brain compartment, and into the battery compartment via the left-most hole. This supplies the LEDs with 12V power.
Step 3: Servos
1. Looking at the bottom of the wing, place the servos in the servo holes. Do not glue the servos in at this time. The servo with the longer wires goes in the left and the shorter on the right.
- pic of servos in wing
2. Route the servo wires downwards over the spar, press them into the wire channel below the spar, and insert them into the box.
- pic of servo wire routing
3. The servos come centered from the factory. If the servos have been rotated, they must be centered again. Center the servos with a radio system or a servo tester. The servos can also be centered later with Lisa/M. If Lisa/M is needed to center the servos, simply do not glue the servos in until later. Tape them in with masking tape or let them rest as they are.
4. Enlarge the outer-most hole on the single-armed servo arm to fit the wire push rod. A 2.6mm drill bit does well.
- pic of servo arm drilled
5. Install the servo arms as close as possible to the positions in the following picture. With the servos installed, the arms should be perpendicular to the surface of the wing. It may not be possible to get them exactly as shown. Do not worry if the servo arms rotate while installing the screws. We will center them later.
- pic of servo arms on centered servos
6. Glue the servos into the wing. Put glue on all sides of the servo that touch foam. Be careful not to put glue on the servo arm. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step.
7. Enlarge the bottom hole of the control horn to fit the pushrod keeper. Use a 3.1mm (1/8") bit, or simply rotate a knife in the hole until it fits. Do not install the keepers in at this time.
8. Test fit the elevon control horns in the elevons. The holes should be towards the leading edge of the wing.
9. Put keepers in the bottom hole with the big end pointing towards the center of the Quadshot but do not put the clear button on yet. Rotate the elevons with the control horns dry fitted. Adjust their location until they look like this:
- pic of elevon deflected control horn installed
10. Glue in the control horns using hot glue, epoxy, or CA and kicker for this step. Plastic adhesive does not work well here. Make sure that the horns are fully seated in the slots. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step. Remove the keeper when dry.
11. Slide the keepers on the wire pushrods.
12. Install the elevon pushrods onto the servos. Insert the part of the wire pushrod that looks like a Z into the outer-most hole on the servo arm until the second bend has been reached.
13. Put the keeper in the bottom hole of the elevon horn and secure it with the clear button. Press the button firmly onto the end of the peg until it is seated against the horn.
14. Center the servos and secure the pushrod in the keeper with the elevons centered.
- finished pic
Step 4: Pylons
The pylons and motors are identical and interchangeable.
1. Install the motors into the pylons. Start by holding a motor with the mounting slot pointing up in one hand and a pylon with the spar clip down in the other.
2. Insert the motor into the pylon while looking through the hole in the motor mount in the pylon. The hole in the pylon may need to be cleared of excess foam at this point.
3. Line up the slot in the motor with the hole and insert a motor clip. The motor will not mount correctly if it is pushed all of the way into the pylon. The straight side of the clip goes through the motor slot.
- pic of motor installed with clip
CAUTION! If you are having trouble getting the clip in, remove the motor and try again. The motor may be damaged if you try and rotate it while it is inside the motor mount.
4. Take an ESC that has short wires, labelled Set A, and thread the two power wires through pylon socket A1 ahead of the spar and the three signal wires behind the spar. Put them into the small cutouts to the right of the pylon socket.
- pic of wires passing through socket A1
5. Install a pylon into position A1. To install the pylons, place one hand under the pylon socket, line up the clip on the bottom of the pylon with the spar, and press the pylon straight down onto the spar until it clicks into place. To remove the pylons, first disconnect the motor wires that connect it to the ESC. Then tip the pylon to the side until you feel it disconnect, about 15 degrees, and pull out. Leave the pylon installed for now.
6. Connect the motor wires to the ESC. It does not matter which wire is connected to which at this moment.
7. Optional: Glue the ESC to the wing. Make sure there is wire slack on both ends of the ESC.
- pic of ESC placement
8. Flip the Quadshot over and press the two power wires into the front wire channel and route them into the battery compartment. Press the three signal wires into the rear wire channel and route them into the brain compartment.
- pic of pylon A1 wire routing
9. Put a piece of tape on the connector or use a silver pen and label it A1.
- labeled ESC signal wire
10. Pylon position A2 also uses a motor and ESC with short wires labelled Set A. As with the first pylon, thread the power wires through the pylon socket ahead of the spar and the three signal wires behind. Put the wires in the wire passages to the right of the pylon socket.
11. Install a pylon in the socket. Connect the motor wires to the ESC. It does not matter which wire is connected to which at this moment.
12. Glue the ESC to the wing as close to the motor as possible.
13. Press the three signal wires into the rear wire channel, route them into the brain compartment, and label them A2.
14. Press the two power wires into the front wire channel and route them on top of the spar instead of into the battery compartment. They then turn up into the battery compartment at the gap in the box that is in front of the spar.
- pic of A2 wire routing
15. Install a pylon into position B1. Connect an ESC with long wires labelled Set B. Glue the ESC to the wing as close to the motor as possible.
16. Press the three signal wires into the rear wire channel, route them into the brain compartment, and label them B1. Press the two power wires into the front wire channel and route them into the battery compartment.
- pic of B1 wire routing
17. Glue the last ESC to the wing in the same position as the other ESCs. Install a pylon into position B2. Connect the ESC and motor.
18. Press the three signal wires into the rear wire channel, route them into the brain compartment, and label them B2. Press the two power wires into the front wire channel and route them on top of the spar instead of into the battery compartment as with pylon A2. They then turn up into the battery compartment through the gap.
- pic of B2 wire routing
Step 5: Solder
1. Solder the 60mm silicone wire pig tail leads to the XT60 male battery connector or connector of your choice. The positive pin on the connector is marked by a "+" on the flat side. Shrink some heat shrink tubing over the solder connections.
- pic of parts/finished pigtail
The wire length is made to match the wire length on the battery that is made for the Quadshot. The length of the battery wire with connector is 1-3/4" or 45mm. It is recommended that you adjust either the length of the pigtail leads or the wires on your battery of choice to fit correctly inside of the Quadshot. To fit properly, the connector must not lie over the hook and loop battery strap. The lid will not close properly if the connector lies on the strap. It is possible to bundle up extra battery wire with the balance tap and put it to the right of the battery if there is room. We find it difficult to manipulate 12AWG wire in the battery compartment. 14AWG turns much tighter. Just make sure that the solder joints connecting the wires to the battery are not stressed.
2. Group the ESC and LED driver board power wires together in the left side of the battery compartment. There should be 4 larger red silicone wires, 4 larger black silicone wires, 1 smaller red wire, and 1 smaller black wire. Cut the four larger wires to the same length as the shortest wire. Unwind the two smaller wires back to the spar. Strip the ends of the wires and tin them.
3a. Recommended: Insert the tinned ends of the wires into the brass tubes, all positive in one and negative the other. Heat a brass tube with the soldering iron from the outside and feed solder inside the tube onto the wires until the solder melts. This method is the strongest.
3b. An alternative method to solder the wires is to solder them in pairs to get two pairs of red, two pairs of black, and another wire of each. Then use heat shrink tubing or tape to hold all five of the like wires together and then solder them. This method is not as strong as the first as it can be difficult to get a uniform solder joint.
3c. Another method is to crimp all five like wires with an electrical connector or metal tab to hold them together and then solder them.
- pic of brass tubing
4. Put an additional piece of shrink tubing over both pig tail leads on the XT60 connector but do not shrink them.
5. Solder the pigtail leads onto the ends of the ESC power wires and shrink the tubing over the connection.
6. Remove the tape that is holding the wires to the pylons.
- pic of finished wiring
1. Route the wingtip LED wires down the sides of the frame and around the corner LEDs in the frame.
- pic of wingtip LED wire routing
2.. Solder the wingtip LED wires to the LED driver board. The red LED wires go in the vacant holes on the right and the green in the left. The order of the wires from left to right is: red x2, black, green, black, blue, black, blue, black, yellow, black, black on top, white on bottom.
Step 6: Brain
1. Install Lisa/M using four of the smaller screws. The 3-pin servo outputs point to the left and the white connectors towards you.
2. Install the XBee using four of the larger screws in the right side of the electronics frame. The antenna goes on top, pointing towards you, with the wires coming out of the bottom. Bend the antenna to point towards the battery compartment. Connect the XBee to Lisa/M using the bottom-center connector.
- pic of Lisa/M XBee installed
Step 7: Receiver(s)
1. A special wire harness is required to use JR or Spektrum receivers. Lia and Lisa/M can fly with one satellite receiver but two are recommended. To use two satellite receivers a Y harness with legs 100mm and 270mm long are required. The center connector is a 6 pin picoblade, connected to Lisa/M in UART3/5. The pinout can be found here. The picoblade 3 pin connector is not compatible with JR or Spektrum satellite receivers.
- pic of JR y harness
2. Start from inside the brain compartment and route the shorter wires through the right-most hole above the spar and continue out the front hole on the side of the frame where the power wires enter. Connect a JR or Spektrum satellite receiver and mount it in the hole in the bottom of the wing.
3. Start from inside the brain compartment and route the longer wires through the lower left hole on the side of the frame where the servo wires enter the lower compartment. Press them into the wire channel below the spar and turn them up towards the hole in the bottom of the wing to the left of the servo. Connect your other satellite receiver and mount it here. A foam doodad is included in the kit to fill in this hole. Cut the doodad to fit your receiver and secure it in place.
- pic of sat Rx wire routing
4. Route the antennas as per the receiver instructions.
5a. To bind the receivers with Lisa/M, plug in the supplied bind plug to the more-left center connector on Lisa/M. The connector only fits one way.
- pic of bind plug installed
5b. To bind the receivers to Lia,
6. Plug in a battery to the Quadshot. It is now in bind mode. Follow the instructions supplied with your transmitter to bind the receivers.
Step 8: Spar Covers and Servo Centering
Glue in the inner spar covers. They are unique and not interchangeable. There are raised numbers in the foam under the spar cover positions as well as on the spar covers themselves. Match spar cover 2 to position 2. Put glue on the underside and outside edges of the covers. Do not put glue on the edges that touch the pylons. The corners on spar cover 3 are removed for wire passage for the ESC. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step.
- pic of bottom of QS with spar covers in
2. Stand the QS on a table and unplug the motors from the ESCs.
3. Turn on the transmitter, install a battery in the Quadshot and plug it in.
4. Meet the safe mode requirements to activate the Quadshot. Raise the throttle until up to 50%. Do not move the left stick left or right.
5. At this point, the servos should activate and center themselves. If you are not sure if the servos have moved, it is possible to move them by moving the right stick. Make sure to not use the left stick. The servos will automatically center when the right stick is released.
6. Turn off the Quadshot by unplugging the battery. Tighten the screws on the elevon horns while holding the elevons in the center position.
Step 9: Winglets
Glue the winglets onto the ends of the wings. Do not glue the elevons onto the winglets. The winglets are identical and are interchangeable. Make sure that the winglets are fully seated onto the ends of the wing. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step.
Step 10: Lids
It is useful to have one or two zip ties bundling the wires together where they enter the electronics frame to make closing the lid easy. Another could be used to tighten the bundle of power wires together.
To install the top lid insert the tabs into the slots above the spar and then press the top edge into the top of the box.
To install the bottom lid line up the hinges on the lid with the hinges on the frame while holding the lid open 180 degrees. Press the hinges together, one at a time, until they pop into place. It should not require excessive force.
Warranty and Repair Policy
Instructions for disposal of WEEE by users in the European Union
Transition Robotics, Inc.