Assembly Manual

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Kit Contents

Latte

  • 1x Right Wing Half
  • 1x Left Wing Half
  • 4x Pylon
  • 1x Spar Cover Set (1, 2, 3, 4)
  • 2x Winglet
  • 1x Radio Receiver Bay Cover
  • 1x Carbon Spar
  • 1x Electronics Frame
  • 1x Electronics Frame Front Lid
  • 1x Electronics Frame Back Lid
  • 2x Servo Linkage Set (pushrod, control horn)
  • 4x Motor Clip
  • 1x 1/4" - 20 Camera Mounting Bolt
  • 1x Hook and Loop Strap
  • 4x M3 Screw
  • 4x M2 Screw
Latte contents from left to right: pylons, spar covers 2 and 3, spar covers 1 and 4, winglets, radio receiver bay cover, front lid, rear lid, electronics frame; left wing half (underside shown), right wing half; carbon spar; M2 screws, M3 screws, motor clips, camera mounting bolt, hook-loop strap, servo pushrods, control horns.

Cappuccino

All of the above, plus:

  • 2x Set A ESC (short wires)
  • 2x Set B ESC (long wires)
  • 4x Motor
  • 4x Prop Saver set (2x M3 screws, 1x Hub, 1x rubber O-ring)
  • 2x Propeller
  • 2x Reverse Propeller
  • 1x Red LED board
  • 1x Green LED board
  • 2x White/Blue LED board
  • 4x LED signal/ground wires
  • 1x LED Driver Board w/signal, ground, and voltage sense wires
  • 1x Battery pigtail
  • 1x Pigtail Kit (2 brass tubes, 2 shrink tube)
  • 1x Servo w/long wires
  • 1x Servo w/short wires
  • 2x Servo quick link
Cappuccino contents from left to right: propellers, pylons, spar covers 2 and 3, spar covers 1 and 4, winglets, radio receiver bay cover, front lid, rear lid, electronics frame, Set B ESCs; reverse propellers, left wing half (underside shown), right wing half, set A ESCs; carbon spar, LED power wires (red/black), voltage sense wire (red), blue/white LED boards and wires (blue/black), red LED board and wires (yellow/black), green LED board and wires (green/black), LED driver board, LED signal wire (white/black); servo accessories, servos, M2 screws, M3 screws, motor clips, camera mounting bolt, hook-loop strap, servo pushrods, control horns, prop savers; motors, pigtail heat shrink tube, pigtail brass tubes, battery pigtail.

Espresso

All of the above, plus:

  • 1x Lisa/M with mounted Aspirin 10DoM IMU
  • 1x XBee w/serial board and connector
  • 1x XBee w/USB serial board
  • 1x Propeller (total of 3 included in kit)
  • 1x Reverse Propeller (total of 3 included in kit)
  • 1x Lisa/M to Spektrum® receiver Y-cable
  • 1x Lisa/M to xBee carrier board cable
  • 1x Lisa/M bind plug

In addition, the LED signal wire and voltage sense wires have Picoblade connectors on one end to facilitate installation into Lisa/M.

Espresso electronics from left to right: Lisa/M with mounted Aspirin IMU (on underside - not shown); xBee module (1 of 2) and USB carrier board; xBee board (2 of 2) and serial carrier board; propeller; reverse propeller; Lisa/M to Spektrum® receiver Y-cable; Lisa/M bind plug; LED signal wire (Espresso version); Voltage sense wire (Espresso version); Lisa/M to xBee carrier board cable

Mocha Kit Lite

Everything included with the Cappuccino, plus:

  • 1x Lia with mounted Aspirin 6DoM IMU
  • 1x Propeller (total of 3 included in kit)
  • 1x Reverse Propeller (total of 3 included in kit)

Mocha Kit Full

Everything included with the Cappuccino, plus:

  • 1x Lia with mounted Aspirin 6DoM IMU
  • 1x Propeller (total of 3 included in kit)
  • 1x Reverse Propeller (total of 3 included in kit)
  • 1x Quadshot 2.4GHz 6-channel radio transmitter with included USB cable and Windows software CD
  • 1x Quadshot 2.4GHz 6-channel radio receiver
  • 1x 3-wire radio receiver pigtail
  • 1x 3-cell lithium-polymer flight battery
  • 1x lithium-polymer battery balancing battery charger

Required Tools

  • Glue (3M 4693H contact cement, cyanoacrylate (CA) and a catalyst (kicker), epoxy, Welder's, or Liquid Nails)
    • We like the 3M 4693H. It is light, easy to work with, and dries clear. This glue cannot be used for all of the operations though; epoxy, or CA is necessary for two steps.
    • hot glue is useful for attaching the motor controllers to the wing
  • Small Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Large Phillips Head Screwdriver
  • Knife
  • Masking Tape
  • Soldering Iron and Solder
  • Needlenose Pliers
  • Wire Cutters
  • Wire Stripper

Additional Recommended Tools

  • Drill
    • 2.6mm (7/64") drill bit
    • 3.1mm (1/8") drill bit
  • One or Two Small Zip Ties
  • Large Flathead Screwdriver
  • Propeller Balancer
  • Sandpaper

Assembly

Note the naming conventions for the four pylons:

Front view.png

Quadshot top view showing pylon naming conventions.

Step 1: Wing

Optional: Lightly wet sand the spar. This improves the glue bond. Be sure to wear rubber gloves.

1. Measure and mark the spar at 400mm and 540mm from one end (15-3/4" and 21-1/4").

QS1 kit 001.jpg

2. Remove the lids from the electronics frame if they are installed before continuing.

3. Install the hook and loop strap in the frame. It is possible to install this later but becomes more difficult.

QS1 kit 002.jpg

Optional: Lightly sand the outside edges of the electronics frame. This includes the left and right outside edges, the spar slot, and the underside of the battery compartment.

4. Glue the spar into the electronics frame. Put glue on three sides of the spar between the marks made in Step 1. The frame should be centered left-to-right on the spar. Make sure that the spar is fully seated in the electronics frame.

QS1 kit 003.jpg
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5. Test fit the left wing half onto the spar and electronics frame. Mark the outside of the frame around the edges of the foam. Note where the foam touches the plastic. Remove the left wing half.

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6. [UPDATE] Optional, but recommended - install the red and black LED board power/ground wires as shown through the left side holes in the electronics frame:

QS1 LED power 1.JPG
QS1 LED power 2.JPG

7. Apply glue:

  • Around the outside the electronics frame where the foam touches
  • On the three sides of the spar to the left of the electronics frame where the foam touches.
    • If you are using contact cement, then apply glue on only one mating surface. For example, not on the wing and spar, but just the spar. This will allow for more time to properly align the parts, but will require more drying time.

8. Put the left wing half onto the spar and frame. Make sure that the spar is fully seated in the wing spar channel. The spar should be slightly above the surface of the foam. The end of the spar will not touch the end of the spar channel. The edge of the frame where the lids rest will sit below the top edge of the foam.

QS1 kit 008.jpg

Note the top edge of the electronics frame is recessed below the top surface of the wing.

QS1 kit 009.jpg

9. Repeat for the right side of the wing.

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Note: press gently to pop the foam into place around the camera mount hole.

QS1 kit 011.jpg

Step 2: Wingtip LEDs

1. With the spar side of the wing up, install the red LED board into the right wingtip and the green LED board into the left wingtip. The boards do not require any glue, and should be installed as shown, with the resistors visible. The red LED board has a yellow power wire and black ground wire. The green LED board has a green power wire and black ground wire. Route the wires in the channel that leads downwards and then aft of the spar, ending in the electronics frame.

QS1 kit 015.jpg
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2. Separate the outer spar covers 1 and 4 from the foam holding them together.

QS1 kit 017.jpg

3. Glue in outer spar covers 1 and 4. The covers are labeled on the outside surface. The wing is also labeled aft of the spar cover locations. Do not put glue on the inboard curved edge where they would touch the pylons. For cover 1 this is the right edge and the left edge for cover 4.

QS1 kit 018.jpg
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Step 3: Servos

1. Enlarge the outermost hole on the single-armed servo arms to fit the wire push rods. If using a drill, a 1.6mm or 1/16" bit works well.

2. The servos come centered from the factory. If the servos have been rotated, they must be centered again. Center the servos with a radio system or a servo tester. The servos can also be centered later with Lisa/M. If Lisa/M is needed to center the servos, simply do not glue the servos into the wing until later - instead, tape them in with masking tape or let them rest as they are.

3. Install the servo arms as close as possible to the positions in the following picture. With the servos installed, the arms should be perpendicular to the surface of the wing. It may not be possible to get them exactly as shown. Do not worry if the servo arms rotate while installing the screws. We will center them later.

Note the servo with the longer wire is shown on the left.

4. With the spar side of the wing up, place the servos in the servo holes. If the servos were centered when the arms were installed, glue the servos into the wing. Put glue on all sides of the servo that touch foam. Be careful not to put glue on the servo arm. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step. The servo with the longer wires goes on the left, between spar covers 1 and 2. The servo with the shorter wires goes on the right, between spar covers 3 and 4.

5. Route the servo wires downwards over the spar, press them into the wire channel below the spar, and insert them into the box.

QS1 kit 021.jpg
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Step 4: Elevon Control Horns

1. Enlarge the bottom hole of the control horn to fit the quick link shaft. Use a 2.2mm (44 gauge, 0.086 in) bit, or simply rotate a knife in the hole until the quick link fits. Install the quick links into the control horns as shown.

QS1 kit 023.jpg

2. Test fit the control horns in the elevons. The holes should be towards the leading edge of the wing, and the quick links should be inboard of the horns. Rotate the elevons with the control horns dry fitted. Sighting down the length of the wing, adjust their location until the center of the quick link shaft is aligned with the bottom surface of the wing, and the front edge of the control horn just contacts the wing foam. If desired, mark where the control horns fit into the elevon to aid alignment during gluing.

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3. Glue in the control horns using hot glue, epoxy, or CA and kicker for this step. 3M contact cement does not work well here. Make sure that the horns are aligned as shown in the previous step. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step.

Step 5: Pylons and Motors

The pylons and motors are identical and interchangeable.

1. On each pylon, clear the motor clip holes and remove any foam flashing from the motor clip cutout areas and inside the motor mount tube.

QS1 kit 026.jpg
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2. Locate the four dark-anodized prop savers and eight long Phillips-head M3 machine screws. The prop savers have a 5mm-diameter end and a 7mm-diameter end to accomodate different propellers.

QS1 kit 103.jpg

The upper two prop savers show the 5mm diameter end. The lower two show the 7mm diameter end. Use the 5mm end with Quadshot propellers.

2a. Optional - apply a drop of thread-locking compound to each M3 screw.

3. Thread two machine screws onto each prop saver. The prop savers are aluminum, so use caution to avoid cross-threading.

Note that the motor shafts have a flat area ground into them:

QS1 kit 157.jpg

4. Slip one prop saver over each motor shaft with the smaller (5mm diameter) end facing out away from the motor. Align the prop saver so the end of one screw is sitting on the shaft's flat area. Lightly tightening the screw by hand as you slip the prop saver on will help you find the flat.

QS1 kit 104.jpg

5. With the 5mm end facing out and flush with the end of the motor shaft, use a screwdriver to tighten both screws down so they lock against the motor shaft.

QS1 kit 105.jpg

6. Repeat with the remaining prop savers and motors.

Important yellow.png Do not install the propellers yet.

7a. Check each motor for loose shaft set screws by holding the motor bell (rotor) in one hand and trying to rotate the motor shaft by turning the prop saver:

QS1 kit 158.jpg

If the shaft rotates, tighten the set screw using a 1.25mm (0.050") allen wrench.

7b. Check each motor for excess play between the motor bell (rotor) and the shaft. Holding the blue shaft in one hand and the silver bell in the other, pull apart lightly:

QS1 kit 159.jpg

There should be 1mm or less of play. If there is excess play, see the Motor Adjustments section below for adjustment information.

Important.png If the motor bell is loose, it can be pulled away by the propeller in flight, which can cause the motor to lose power and/or stop spinning.

8. Install the motors into the pylons. Start by holding a motor with the mounting slot pointing up in one hand and a pylon with the spar clip down in the other. Rotate the slot in the motor and the holes in the pylon until they match alignment as seen in the picture.

QS1 kit 028.jpg

9. Insert the motor into the pylon until the the slot in the motor is aligned with the pylon hole. Make sure the wires exiting the motor are not crushed between the motor and pylon. Gently bend the wires out of the way if necessary. The motor can go too far into the tube. The motor clip will not install correctly if the motor is in the tube all of the way.

QS1 kit 029.jpg

10. Insert a motor clip so that the straight side goes into motor mount tube hole, through the slot in the motor, and out the other hole. The bent part of the clip will grip the underside of the motor mount tube. Remember, the motor will not mount correctly if it is pushed all of the way into the pylon.

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Beginning to insert the clip, front view.

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Beginning to insert the clip, rear view.

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Fully inserted clip, front view.

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Fully inserted clip, rear view.

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Fully inserted clip, top view.

Important.png If you are having trouble inserting the clip, remove the motor and try again. The motor may be damaged if you try and rotate it while it is inside the motor mount.

11. Repeat with the remaining pylons and motor assemblies.

Step 6: ESCs

Set A electronic speed controllers (ESCs) have shorter wires. Set B ESCs have longer wires. The ESCs are otherwise identical. It may help to use a large flathead screwdriver to press the ESC power and signal wires into the wire channels.

A1 ESC

1. Take one Set A ESC and thread the red and black power wires through the wing in pylon socket A1 (top port side), ahead of the spar. Thread the three signal wires behind the spar. Fit the wires into the small cutouts to the left of the pylon socket.

QS1 kit 035.jpg

2. Install a pylon into position A1. To install a pylon, place one hand under the pylon socket, line up the clip on the bottom of the pylon with the spar, and press the pylon straight down onto the spar until it clicks into place around the spar. To remove a pylon, first disconnect the motor wires that connect it to the ESC. Then tip the pylon about 15 degrees to the side until you feel it disconnect from the spar, and then pull it out of the socket. Leave the pylon installed for now.

Pylon attach 4.jpg

Place one hand under the pylon socket and press the pylon straight down onto the spar until it clicks into place.

3. Check that the three motor wires can connect to the ESC without any wires being stretched tight. Adjust the position of the ESC if necessary.

4. Optional: Glue the ESC to the wing in the position shown.

QS1 kit 039.jpg

5. Flip the Quadshot over and press the two power wires into the front wire channel and route them into the battery compartment. Press the three signal wires into the rear wire channel and route them into the brain compartment.

QS1 kit 040.jpg

6. Put a piece of tape on the connector or use a silver pen and label it '1.'

QS1 kit 106.jpg

A2 ESC

1.Take the remaining Set A ESC and thread the power wires through pylon socket A2 (top starboard side) ahead of the spar. Thread the signal wires behind the spar. Fit the wires into the small cutouts to the left of the pylon socket.

QS1 kit 037.jpg

2. Install a pylon into position A2. Check that the three motor wires can connect to the ESC without any wires being stretched tight. Adjust the position of the ESC if necessary.

3. Flip the Quadshot over and press the two power wires into the front wire channel. Route the power wires along the top of the spar, and into the battery compartment through the small channel in the electronics frame.

QS1 kit 043.jpg
QS1 kit 045.jpg

Place the A2 ESC power wires along the spar and through the small channel so they pass into the battery box.

4. Press the signal wires into the rear wire channel, route it into the brain compartment, and label the connector '2.'

QS1 kit 107.jpg

5. Optional: Flip the Quadshot back over and glue the ESC to the wing in the position shown above. Make sure no wires are stretched tight.

B1 ESC

1. Install a pylon into position B1 (lower port side).

  • pic of installed B1 pylon

2. Take one Set B ESC and position it as shown. Press the red and black power wires into the channels ahead of the spar. Press the three signal wires into the channel behind the spar. Note that the wires must run along the entire length of the wire channel and exit next to the pylon, with some additional length outside of the wing as seen in the picture below.

QS1 kit 057.jpg

3. Check that the three motor wires can connect to the ESC without any wires being stretched tight. Adjust the position of the ESC if necessary.

4. Optional: Glue the ESC to the wing in the position shown above. Make sure no wires are stretched tight.

5. Route the three signal wires into the brain compartment, and label them B1. Route the two power wires into the battery compartment.

B2 ESC

1. Take the remaining Set B ESC and position it as shown next to the pylon socket B2 (lower starboard side). Keeping the red and black power wires ahead of the spar and the three signal wires behind the spar, fit the wires into the small cutouts on the end of spar cover 1 and along the bottom of the pylon socket.

QS1 kit 049.jpg

2. Install a pylon into position B2. Check that the three motor wires can connect to the ESC without any wires being stretched tight. Adjust the position of the ESC if necessary.

QS1 kit 050.jpg

3. Press the power wires into the channels ahead of the spar. Press the three signal wires into the channel behind the spar.

4. Route the three signal wires into the brain compartment, and label them B2. Route the two power wires along the top of the spar, fitting them neatly next to the A2 ESC power wires. Make sure that they lie flat against the spar as shown. The spar covers do not fit otherwise. Route the power wires into the battery compartment through the small channel in the electronics frame.

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QS1 kit 053.jpg
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5. Optional: glue the ESC to the wing as shown.

QS1 kit 052.jpg

Step 7: Solder

LEDs

1. Locate the voltage sense wire (red), LED driver board PCB, LED signal wires (white/black), LED power/ground wires (red/black), and two blue/white LED boards with blue/black wires. The picoblade connectors for use with Lisa/M are shown. Depending on your autopilot (Lia, Lisa/M, Lisa/L, etc), you may need different connectors, or no connectors.

QS1 kit 061.jpg

From left to right: voltage sense wire (red), LED driver board PCB, LED signal wires (white/black), LED power and ground wires (red/black), and two blue/white LED boards with blue/black wires.

2. Position the LED driver board so the "LED driver board" text is facing right-side up, and the small driver chip is on the right. Solder the wires as shown:

  • Red voltage sense wire and red LED power wire into the same leftmost '+' hole
  • Black LED ground wire into the leftmost '-' hole
  • First set of blue and white LED board wires into the second pair of holes:
    • Blue (power) wire into '+'
    • Black (ground) wire into '-'
  • Leave the third and fourth pairs of holes empty for the red LED board wires and green LED board wires
  • Second set of blue and white LED board wires into the fifth pair of holes:
    • Blue (power) wire into '+'
    • Black (ground) wire into '-'
  • White and black LED signal wires into the rightmost set of holes (vertical)
    • Black ground wire into the '-' (upper) hole
    • White signal wire into the signal (lower) hole
QS1 kit 062.jpg

Assembled LED driver board. The five + holes on the left are connected internally and pass battery voltage to the LEDs and the autopilot via the voltage sense wire. The bottom right signal input drives the LEDs with a PWM output from the autopilot through the attached N-channel transistor.

3. Install the LED driver board in the lower compartment. It is mounted using two of the M3 (larger) Phillips head screws in the lowest standoff mounts. The text should be right side up. Make sure that it is in the same orientation as in the photo with the red and black wires on the left and the black and white wire on the right.

QS1 kit 063.jpg

4. Mount the white and blue LED boards by inserting the LEDs into the holes at the bottom corners of the electronics frame. Mount the boards so the resistor side (white LED) faces down. A drop of hot glue or epoxy on the corner stands holds the LED boards in place.

5. If you didn't install it before gluing on the wing, route the red and black LED power/ground wires around the left LEDs, up the left side of the brain compartment, and into the battery compartment via the left-most hole.

6. Route the wingtip LED wires (yellow/black and green/black) down the sides of the frame and around the corner LEDs in the frame.

7. Solder the wingtip LED wires into the two sets remaining empty holes:

  • Left set of holes:
    • Yellow (power) wire into the '+'
    • Black (ground wire into the '-'
  • Right set of holes:
    • Green (power) wire into the '+'
    • Black (ground) wire into the '-'
QS1 kit 066.jpg

Power Wires

Recommendations:

  • The pigtail wire is 45mm (1-3/4") in length, and is made to match a battery with approximately 85mm (3-3/8") power leads, as measured from the battery to the inside of the XT60 connector. It is recommended that you adjust either the length of the pigtail leads or the wires on your battery to fit correctly inside of the Quadshot. If the leads on the Quadshot are shortened it will not be possible to shrink tubing over the brass tubing. Tape is required in this case.
  • To fit properly, the connector must not lie over the hook and loop battery strap, as this prevents the lid from closing properly. It is possible to bundle up extra battery wire with the balance tap and put it to the right of the battery if there is room.
  • It is difficult to manipulate 12AWG wire in the battery compartment - use 14AWG if possible.
  • Ensure that the solder joints connecting the wires to the battery are not stressed.

1. Group the silicone ESC power wires together by color in the left side of the battery compartment.

Trim the wires to match. A safe length to make each set of four wires is the same length as the shortest wire. The length we use is 33mm. This is measured from the hole under the spar.

When we install the battery in our Quadshots with the leads starting in the bottom right corner, the black wire is out. So, we arranged the ESC leads such that the black wires also lay on top. This way the wires do not need to be twisted to plug in the battery.

QS1 kit 060.jpg

2. Unwind the portion of the LED power and ground wires that extend into the battery compartment.

3. Strip and tin the ends of 10 wires:

  • Four red ESC power wires
  • Four black ESC ground wires
  • Red LED power wire
  • Black LED ground wire
QS1 kit 064.jpg

4a. Recommended: Brass tubes

  • Cut a piece of cardboard to line the bottom of the battery compartment.
  • Insert the tinned ends of the wires into the brass tubes, all positive in one and negative the other. The success of this method relies greatly on equal length wires. The wires must rest within the tube without *too much manipulation. If one wire is long and the solder is melted, it will raise the brass tube over the other wires, separating the joint before the solder cools.
  • Heat a brass tube with a soldering iron from the outside, near the bottom of the tube. Make sure to lightly touch the tube. The assembly may fall apart if too much force is used.
  • Feed solder inside the tube onto the wires until the solder melts, joining the wires and tube. Do not push the wires with the solder while the joint is cold or they wires may fall out of the tube; just contact the wires with the solder. This method is the strongest.
QS1 kit 067.jpg
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4b. An alternative method to solder the wires is to solder them in pairs to get two pairs of red, two pairs of black, and another wire of each. Then use heat shrink tubing or tape to hold all five of the like wires together and then solder them. This method is not as strong as the first as it can be difficult to get a uniform solder joint.

4c. Another method is to crimp each set of five like wires with an electrical connector or metal tab to hold them together and then solder them.

5. Put a piece of shrink tubing over each pig tail lead on the XT60 connector but do not shrink them. It is recommended to first cut the shrink tubing to just longer than the brass tubing length. The tubing may shrink due to the short length of the pigtail leads.

6. Insert the pigtail leads into the appropriate brass tube. Holding the shrink tubing away from the brass tubes, solder the pigtail wires into place.

QS1 kit 071.jpg

7. Shrink the heat shrink tubing over the brass, making sure the metal is completely covered.

QS1 kit 108.jpg
Important.png Use caution to prevent your heat source from melting the foam and plastic. We like to poke the power wires through a sheet of cardboard covering the battery area.

8. Test the wire harness. Connect a 12V power source or 3-cell Lithium-Polymer battery to the yellow XT60 connector and verify that the LED lights turn on.

QS1 kit 110.jpg
QS1 kit 112.jpg
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9. Disconnect the power source or battery before continuing.

Step 8: Electronics

Lisa/M and Lia

A schematic diagram for connecting Lisa/M and Lia to a Quadshot is available in the Paparazzi wiki.

Important yellow.png By default, the Lisa/M's internal 5V power bus is separated from the servo connector power bus. For the Quadshot, they must be connected to allow Lisa/M to receive power from the ESCs. To do this, close JP1 (labelled 'VS') by bridging it with solder - see the Paparazzi wiki Lisa/M jumper configuration page. If you purchased an Espresso, this should have already been done.

The following photos show a Lisa/M, but installation is the same for Lia - solder the wires to the given through-holes instead of using the white Picoblade connectors.

1. Install Lisa/M or Lia using the four M2 (smaller) screws and a small Phillips-head screwdriver. The three-pin servo outputs point to the port (left) wing. On a Lisa/M, the white connectors face out. On Lia and Lisa/M, the white serial number stickers on the microcontroller chip and Aspirin are on the bottom/underside. The servo outputs are marked from S1 at the bottom (trailing edge) to S8 at the top.

QS1 kit 114.jpg
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2. Connect the four ESC three-wire connectors to the three-pin servo outputs. The orange (signal) wires are on top as shown.

2a. Connect the A1 ESC (from the left wing, plug marked '1' in Step 6) to the S1 output.

QS1 kit 116.jpg
QS1 kit 118.jpg

2b. Connect the A2 ESC (from the right wing, plug marked '2' in Step 6) to the S2 output.

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QS1 kit 120.jpg

2c. Connect the B1 ESC (from the left wing, unmarked plug) to the S3 output.

QS1 kit 121.jpg
QS1 kit 122.jpg

2d. Connect the B2 ESC (from the right wing, unmarked plug) to the S4 output.

QS1 kit 123.jpg
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3. Connect the two servo three-wire connectors to the three-pin servo outputs. The white (signal) wires are on top as shown.

3a. Connect the port (left) servo to the S5 output.

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3b. Connect the starboard (right) servo to the S6 output.

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QS1 kit 128.jpg

4. Tuck the wires coming from the right side out of the way.

QS1 kit 129.jpg

xBee Modules

xBee Configuration

Both xBee modules must be set to communicate at 57600 baud (by default, they communicate at 9600 baud, which is too slow). To change the baud rate:

1. Mount an xBee module onto the blue USB carrier board as shown. Use caution to avoid misaligning the module on the carrier.

QS1 kit 165.jpg
QS1 kit 166.jpg

2. Connect the carrier to your computer using a mini-USB cable (not included).

3. Configure the xBee module to 57600 baud:

  • Linux, MacOS, or Windows:
    • Use a terminal emulation program and the instructions on the Paparazzi wiki..
  • Windows or WINE:

4. Carefully remove the xBee module from the USB carrier board. Use caution to avoid bending the pins.

5. Repeat the above steps with the second xBee module. Leave the second module mounted on the USB carrier and use it with your ground station computer.

xBee installation

1. Install the serial XBee carrier board in the right side of the electronics frame. The notched end of the XBee board will be closest to the spar, and the serial output will leave closest to the wing trailing edge. Use two of the M3 screws, installed into the holes closest to the spar.

QS1 kit 139.jpg
Important yellow.png If you install the supplied M3 screws into the remaining two holes of the xBee carrier board (nearest to the trailing edge), the screw tips will pierce the bottom surface of the electronics enclosure.
Important green.png If you plan to frequently re-flash firmware onto Lisa/M or Lia, you may want to use adhesive-backed hook and loop fastener instead of screws to secure the xBee carrier board, as this will allow easy removal for access to the USB port.

2. Connect the XBee carrier board connector wire to the four-pin UART2 connector on the bottom center of Lisa/M.

QS1 kit 140.jpg

3. Install the XBee board onto the carrier by pressing its pins into the connectors, matching the XBee's shape with the white outline on the carrier. Use caution to avoid bending or misaligning the pins.

QS1 kit 141.jpg

4. If using an XBee board with a whip antenna, bend the antenna to point towards the battery compartment.

QS1 kit 142.jpg

Test Power and Bind Receivers

Lisa/M, Lia, and Lisa/L are compatible with JR® and Spektrum® 2.4GHz DSM2 satellite receivers. DSMX support is upcoming but not complete as of this writing. It is possible to fly with one satellite receiver, but two are recommended.

Lisa/M

1. Plug in the black and white LED control wires from the LED board into the 6-pin connector on the bottom right edge of LIsa/M (SPI1).

QS1 kit 143.jpg

2. Plug in the red voltage sense wire from the LED board into the 7-pin connector on the right edge of LIsa/M (labelled I2C CAN BAT).

QS1 kit 144.jpg

3. Plug in the 6-pin end of the receiver Y-cable into the 6-pin connector on the top center edge of Lisa/M (UART1/5).

QS1 kit 145.jpg

4. Temporarily plug in your satellite receiver(s) into the other ends of the receiver Y-cable. The primary receiver is connected to the shorter pigtail, and the secondary receiver to the longer pigtail. Lisa/M cannot bind if no receiver is present on the primary pigtail, even if there is one present on the secondary.

QS1 kit 146.jpg

5. Plug in the Lisa/M bind plug (single connector with black looped wire) into the 6-pin connector on the center left of LIsa/M (ANALOG1).

QS1 kit 148.jpg

6. Power up the airframe by plugging in a 12V power supply or battery to the main pigtail. The airframe LEDs should light, Lisa LEDs should blink, and the satellite receiver LEDs should blink quickly. If using a regulated power supply, this process should draw 350-400 mA at 12V.

QS1 kit 149.jpg

7. Holding down your transmitter's bind button, switch it on. The receiver LEDs should blink slower and then go solid to indicate they have bound successfully.

8. Unplug/power off the airframe and then switch off the transmitter.

9. Remove the Lisa/M bind plug and keep it in a safe place.

10. Unplug the satellite receivers.

Lia

Lia: Similar to Lisa/M, but without the center connector. Use one ≥100mm three-wire pigtail and one ≥270mm three-wire pigtail and solder into the six RX RC through holes.

QS1 Lia wiring diagram 01.jpg
Important yellow.png By default, the Lia supplies servo bus voltage (5V) to the RC receivers. This is correct for the Quadshot receiver, but Spektrum DSM2 and similar satellite receivers typically require 3.3V. To change the voltage setting, open JP8 and close JP9 - see the Paparazzi wiki Lia jumper configuration page. If you purchased a Mocha Kit Lite, this should have already been done.

1. Solder the black and white LED control wires from the LED board into the SPI1 group of holes at the right end of the bottom edge. Solder the black wire into the GND hole (far left) and the white wire into the DRDY hole (far right).

2. Solder the red voltage sense wire into from the LED board into the BVS hole of the BAT group of holes at the bottom end of the right edge.

3. (Mocha full kit) Solder the unconnectorized end of the white/red/black 3-wire servo extension cable into three right-hand holes of the RX RC group of holes at the top center edge of Lia. Solder the black wire to the rightmost GND, the red to the rightmost 3V3, and the white to RX3.

3. (Mocha kit lite) Solder the unconnectorized ends of your Spektrum-DSM2-compatible satellite receivers into the RX RC group of holes at the top center edge of Lia. The right-hand three holes (RX3) is for the primary receiver - use these holes if you are only using one satellite receiver (not recommended). Solder the black/brown wire to the rightmost GND, the red to the rightmost 3V3, and the white/orange to RX3. For the secondary receiver, solder into the left three holes in the same manner, with signal to RX5.

4. To bind the Lia, use a pair of tweezers or similar to short the bottom pad and the 4th pin up from the bottom of the 6-pin connector on the center left of LIsa/M (ALOG1).

5. Power up the airframe by plugging in a 12V power supply or battery to the main pigtail. The airframe LEDs should light, Lia LEDs should blink, and the satellite receiver LEDs should blink quickly. If using a regulated power supply, this process should draw 350-400 mA at 12V.

6. Holding down your transmitter's bind button, switch it on. The receiver LEDs should blink slower and then go solid to indicate they have bound successfully.

7. Unplug/power off the airframe and then switch off the transmitter.

8. Stop shorting the ALOG1 pads.

9. Unplug the satellite receivers.

Lisa/L

Lisa/L: Use two three-wire pigtails. See here for the connection diagram.

Step 9: Install Receiver(s)

JR® and Spektrum® Receivers

Important yellow.png It is recommended that you untwist the shorter pigtail, which will increase its length.

1a. Start from inside the electronics enclosure and route the shorter pigtail through the right-most hole above the spar.

QS1 kit 151.jpg

1b. Continue out the front right hole on the side of the enclosure where the power wires enter.

QS1 kit 131.jpg

1c. Connect a JR or Spektrum satellite receiver and secure it in place in the hole in the bottom of the wing. Test-fit spar cover 2 and trim as needed to fit your receiver. Route the receiver antennas as per the manufacturer's instructions.

QS1 kit 152.jpg
Important yellow.png We recommend installing your receivers and cutting away spar cover foam as necessary so that their LEDs are visible, and that they can be removed from the airframe if necessary.

2a. Start from inside the electronics enclosure and route the longer pigtail through the lower left hole on the side of the compartment where the servo wires enter.

QS1 kit 153.jpg

2b. Press them into the wire channel below the spar and turn them up towards the hole in the bottom of the wing to the left of the servo. Connect your other satellite receiver and mount it here.

QS1 kit 136.jpg

3. Route the receiver antennas as per the manufacturer's instructions.

4. If desired, cut the radio receiver bay cover to fit your receiver and secure it in place.

FlySky® and Quadshot Receivers

Important yellow.png If a FlySky® CT6B radio system is used, Lia and Lisa/M are only directly compatible with FlySky® CT6B radio systems that have a PPM output on the BAT channel signal pin.

Use a 250mm black/red/white three-wire pigtail with a male servo connector on one end and bare wires (for Lia) or a 6-pin Picoblade connector (for Lisa/M) on the other.

1. Start from inside the brain compartment and route the pigtail through the lower left hole on the side of the frame where the servo wires enter the lower compartment. Press them into the wire channel below the spar and turn them up towards the hole in the bottom of the wing to the left of the servo.

2. Press-fit the receiver into the hole in the wing so that the antenna fits into the notch.

3. Clip the antenna between the foam fingers on the wing. If desired, secure with tape or a dab of glue.

4. Insert the receiver pigtail into the channel labelled BAT (if using a FlySky receiver) or PPM/BIND (if using a QuadShot receiver), making sure that the pigtail polarity is correct.

Lisa/M:

6-pin Picoblade connector pinout:

  • Black (ground) to pin 1
  • Red (3.3V) to pin 2
  • White (PWM signal) to pin 3
  • No connections to pins 4-6

Lia:

Strip and tin the ends of the three pigtail wires. Solder the wires into the three rightmost through holes in the RX RC section:

  • Black (ground) to GND
  • Red (3.3V) to 3V3
  • White (PWM signal) to RX3

Other Receivers

A PPM encoder board should allow Lisa/M and Lia to receive commands from most RC receivers. A minimum of 5 channels is required (throttle, pitch, roll, yaw, flight mode), and 6 or more channels is recommended.

Ppm receiver on Lisa2 for toytronics branch. Connect the ppm receiver on UART1.

Include in your airframe

 < subsystem name= "radio_control" type="ppm">


and exclude

  <!--define name="RADIO_KILL_SWITCH" value="RADIO_GEAR"/
  <define name="RADIO_CONTROL_SPEKTRUM_SIGNS" value="\{1,1,-1,1,-1,-1,-1,1,1,1,1,1\}"/>
  <define name = "RADIO_CONTROL_SPEKTRUM_SECONDARY_PORT" value = "UART5"/>
  <define name = "OVERRIDE_UART5_IRQ_HANDLER"/>-->

Step 10: Spar Covers

The spar covers are unique and not interchangeable. There are recessed numbers in the wing foam aft of the spar cover positions as well as on the spar covers themselves.

1. Optional: Indent or remove some of the foam as shown below to make a wire passage for the satellite receiver wire will help allow the spar cover to sit flat.

QS1 kit 187.jpg
Important yellow.png We recommend installing your receivers and cutting away spar cover foam as necessary so that their LEDs are visible, and that they can be removed from the airframe if necessary.

2. Glue in the inner spar covers. Put glue on the underside and outside edges of the covers. Do not put glue on the edges that touch the pylons. The corners on spar cover 3 are removed for wire passage for the ESC. Allow the glue to dry before moving on to the next step.

QS1 kit 074.jpg

Step 11:Servo Centering

To center the servos with a Lia or Lisa/M:

1. Stand the QS on a level surface and unplug the motors from the ESCs.

2. Turn on the transmitter, install a battery in the Quadshot and plug it in.

3. Meet the safe mode requirements to activate the Quadshot. Raise the throttle above 15%. Do not move the left stick left or right.

4. At this point, the servos activate and center themselves.

5. Install the elevon pushrods onto the servos. Insert the part of the wire pushrod that looks like a Z into the outer-most hole on the servo arm until the second bend has been reached.

QS1 kit 091.jpg

6. Turn off the Quadshot by unplugging the battery. Tighten the screws on the elevon horns while holding the elevons in the center position. The center position is where the inside ends of the elevons are in alignment with the electronics frame.

QS1 kit 093.jpg

Step 12: Winglets

Important green.png The winglets are identical and are interchangeable.


Check the fit of the winglets onto the ends of the wings, and note how the winglet keys onto the end of the wing:

QS1 winglet 01.jpg
QS1 winglet 03.jpg

Working on one winglet at a time, apply a thin coat of glue onto the winglet as shown:

QS1 winglet 05.jpg

Press and hold the winglet onto the end of the wing to allow the glue to adhere:

QS1 winglet 04.jpg

Repeat with the other winglet.

Step 13: Lids

It is useful to have one or two zip ties bundling the wires together where they enter the electronics frame to make closing the lid easier. Another could be used to tighten the bundle of power wires together.

To install the battery lid, insert the tabs into the slots above the spar and then press the top edge into the top of the box.

QS1 kit 095.jpg

To install the brain lid, line up the hinges on the lid with the hinges on the frame while holding the lid open 180 degrees. Press the hinges together, one at a time, until they pop into place. It should not require excessive force.

QS1 kit 094.jpg

Before you Fly

Important.png Read the Mocha User Manual before you fly!

Transmitter Setup

The Quadshot requires a transmitter with 6 or more channels. These are defined by Paparazzi to be:

Channel Number Definition Name Description
0 RADIO_THROTTLE Throttle
1 RADIO_ROLL Roll
2 RADIO_PITCH Pitch
3 RADIO_YAW Yaw
4 RADIO_GEAR Flight mode switch
5 RADIO_FLAP Stick sensitivity switch
5 RADIO_AUX1 Not used
6 RADIO_AUX2 Not used
7 RADIO_AUX3 Not used
8 RADIO_AUX4 Not used
9 RADIO_AUX5 Not used
10 RADIO_AUX6 Not used
11 RADIO_AUX7 Not used

In this manual, it is assumed that the throttle and yaw stick is on the left, and the pitch and roll stick is on the right. The Flight Mode 3-position switch is on the left, and the Stick sensitivity 3-position switch is on the right.

Tx.jpg

Radio transmitter with the switches labeled.

It is critical that all in-transmitter mixing and dual rates are turned off, and all trims are centered. In-transmitter exponential settings should also be turned off, as these functions are replaced by the stick sensitivity function on the right (Paparazzi channel 5) three-way switch.

Set roll (aileron) and yaw (rudder) to reverse sense - e.g., stick full right gives minimum output; set all other channels to normal sense:

QS1 kit 156.jpg

Motor Adjustments

To remove excess (>1mm) play between the motor bell housing (rotor) and the rest of the motor:

1. Loosen the shaft set screw with a 1.25mm (0.050") allen wrench.

QS1 kit 160.jpg

2. Place the motor upright on a hard flat surface and press the motor bell down lightly to lower the bell on the shaft.

QS1 kit 161.jpg

Use caution to avoid damaging the small retaining clip on the rear end of the shaft.

QS1 kit 162.jpg

3. Tighten the shaft set screw and recheck the motor for excess play.

Important yellow.png Do not remove all play between the bell and rest of the motor, as this can cause the motor to overheat or seize.

Contact Information

Warranty and Repair Policy

Please see the TRI Quadshot Store Refund Policy and TRI Quadshot Store Terms of Service for more information.